Just when you think you know Greece, you’ll happen upon another slice of coast, sail to another island, or stumble across yet another one of the best hotels in Greece – and your perceptions are flipped all over again. Big-hitting Santorini (bright-white churches topped by blue domes that melt into the sky) and Mykonos (dinky beach bars arranged around a Venetian harbour) get a lot of attention. The scrubbier, craggier islands of Crete and Corfu, and the smaller, more bohemian flecks of land such as Antiparos and Syros are much-loved, too.
On the mainland, Athens might be steeped in history but is always pushing boundaries with clever art, restaurants and bars. And across the whole country are some of Europe’s best hotels – from sweeping retreats for switching off to stays built into caves and low-key hangouts that put wellness at the forefront of everything. Here, Athens-raised Rachel Howard picks her favourite hotels in Greece, from her favourite island spots to the mainland must-visits.
Kalesma Mykonos, Mykonos {Booking now here}
Since the 1960s, Mykonos has been known for a very singular brand of hedonism. One that revolves around dance-until-sunrise parties fueled by cocktails and thumping DJ beats. Kalesma is a pulse-slowing alternative that taps into the zeitgeist with yoga sessions, mocktails, a cold plunge, and views so spectacular that even device-addicted guests abandon their screens. Perched on a bougainvillaea-draped hilltop overlooking Ornos Bay, this discreet retreat has no shortage of pleasures, from a sensational farm-to-fire restaurant to a dazzling new spa. Twenty-five one-bedroom suites and villas all have plunge pools as well as sunrise and sunset views. They’ve become so in demand the owners are adding 19 for next season. From £836. Jen Murphy
Canaves Ena, Santorini {Booking now here}
Sweep past baskets of grapes punctuating the roadside vineyards up to the fishing village of Oia. Soon enough, you’ll reach a pearly grey pathway inviting you into Ena, carved directly into the half moon of Santorini’s glistening cliff face. Forty years since launch, the Canaves Collection’s first hotel has just unveiled a total renovation. Its 18 ultra-chic cave rooms are now all Santorinian marble and woods, glassy plunge pools and bubbling jacuzzis, with blistering Cycladic stucco walls set against flashes of pink bougainvillaea and, from every angle, glorious views over the deep, sparkling blue of the caldera. The guests, nearly all couples, move from poolside lounger to restaurant, watching the sun dip low over the yachts in the water, over spiced moussaka and filo honey-drizzled pies. There may now be five hotels in the Canaves Collection, but Ena remains the one to beat for a break for two. Charley Ward
Hotel Grande Bretagne, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Athens {Booking now here}
Celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2024, the GB (as locals fondly call it) is almost as much of an Athenian landmark as the Parthenon. The 5th-century-BC monument itself floats like a mirage just beyond the hotel’s lofty rooftop bar and restaurant, which overlooks the Parliament piazza where statuesque Evzones, members of the Presidential Guard, strut their stuff. If the location feels “only in Athens,” the interiors have all the glitzy trappings of a grand European hotel: gleaming marble inlay floors, flamboyant flower arrangements, giant gilded mirrors. Liveried doormen usher you through the revolving doors into what feels like a parallel universe, where the hubbub of downtown Athens gives way to the tinkling piano in the stained-glass-ceilinged winter garden, where afternoon tea is served by slinky waitresses who glide between the fluted columns. The lesser-known draw is not the fine dining or even the secret seventh-floor swimming pool but the subterranean spa. A profoundly therapeutic massage and plumping 111 Skin facial with one of the brilliantly intuitive therapists will leave you feeling at least 150 years younger.
Ace Hotel & Swim Club, Athens {Booking now here}
Ace Hotel Athens is a real homage to the Greek Riviera’s golden era, and you immediately feel that it’s a labour of love. It’s rare for a hotel to simultaneously give off a too-cool-for-school vibe and a genuinely warm, intimate environment, but Ace makes it look easy. This is a first-name-basis kind of place where the team, staff and suppliers define collaboration and as a result create a home from home. In the rooms, walls are painted the colour of seashells and woven straw carpets add a nature-inspired pop to almond tiling and wood panels. The subtle decorative elements are a design pundit’s delight: coffee table books lie neatly on circular tables, a record player sits next to the bed’s marshmallow-like pillows and harpy lamps. The hotel’s contemporary French-American restaurant Sebastians is an all-day bistro and offers enough to keep both guests and walk-ins content, while the hotel’s coffee shop Good Chemistry is your essential morning Freddo fix stop. Outside, stylish cabanas, striped sun loungers and daybeds hem the pool. The Swim Club is open to hotel guests and anyone in the neighbourhood who wishes to purchase a day pass. Tamara Southward
Domes of Elounda, Crete {Booking now here}
Cretans love kids – so family-friendly hotels aren’t hard to come by. But this sprawling retreat tumbling down a slope with spectacular views over glittering seas to Spinalonga island is one of the best. More village than resort, facilities – which include an olive tree-shaded sandy beach, several large pools (one just for adults) gourmet restaurants, a kids club and a games room for teens – are excellent and the elegant spa even has a specially designated kids’ treatment menu. Linked by winding paved alleys shaded with scarlet paper chains of bougainvillea and star white jasmine, rooms, suites and villas veer from extremely comfortable to very luxurious – many have plunge pools or whirlpool baths. Families will love the self-catering facilities in Luxury Residences but privacy is best in Ultra-Luxe Villas, which are like individual houses with gyms and saunas, and pools indoors and out. Heidi Fuller-Love
Grace Hotel, Auberge Resorts Collection, Santorini {Booking now here}
Santorini is a destination that is exactly as you pictured it. Meandering walkways built into the volcanic cliffsides, whitewashed houses kissed with blue domes and unparalleled sunset views. The Grace Hotel is simply an effortless extension of this island’s mystique. The hotel sits directly in front of the famed Skaros Rock, with each level, from the 363 bar to Varoulka Santorini, boasting unobstructed views. You’ll find the rooms peppered across the grounds, creating a real sense of privacy for each guest. We were lucky enough to stay in one of the two brand-new Infinity Suites, an ultra-private addition to the boutique hotel, which solidified its place at the forefront of luxury. We make our way up the steps of our suite, and the infinity plunge pool slowly comes into focus with two plush loungers positioned for lazing the day away. The interiors are pared-back minimalism at its finest, with calming greys and warm American walnut accents creating a relaxed ambience. The suites offer a living area that funnels light through the volcanic stone, keeping the space cool in the afternoon sun and ideal for enjoying a tipple from the well-stocked mini-bar. The guests at Grace Hotel have plenty of options regarding food and drink, with Varoulko Santorini at the heart of its culinary offering. Champagne breakfasts are a daily occurrence, paired with a six-course menu to kickstart your day. The poolside menu offers fresh fruit platters perfect for hot summer days. Varoulka Santorini is the hotel’s shining star – overlooking Santorini’s caldera guests can enjoy a menu led by Michelin-awarded Chef Lefteris Lazarou. You can eat à la carte (which must include a starter, main, and dessert) or let Chef Lazarou guide you through one of three tasting menus – Aegean, Coral, or Lava. We went with Lava (how could we not!), and it did not disappoint. Grace Hotel is the ultimate romantic stay and an absolute must if you’re looking to treat yourself to a luxurious summer getaway on the famed island of Santorini.
One & Only Aesthesis, Athenian Riviera {Booking now here}
The latest milestone in the revival of the Athenian Riviera, Greece’s first One & Only resort offers an unstuffy approach to ultra-luxury. In its 1960s heyday, Asteria beach was a playground for socialites and starlets; many black-and-white Greek movies were shot in the Modernist bungalows and open-air restaurant. The new buildings follow the exact blueprint of the original layout, with 137 bungalows, villas and residences scattered between lush gardens and the shoreline. Interiors are a tour de force of discreet decadence, but it’s the seamless service and cut-above amenities that really elevate the experience. The luscious Guerlain spa is reason enough to book a stay; the nourishing honey and orchid facials are phenomenal. It would take weeks to work through the sensational breakfast spread at Ora restaurant (don’t miss the almond and feta cake). By night, Ora’s lemon-yellow booths become a lively setting for chef Ettore Botrini’s accessible but accomplished Greco-Italian menu. At El Bar, three-Michelin starred Paco Morales has created an extravagant take on tapas, featuring smoky salmorejo with cheese foam and indecently unctuous chicken croquettes with Ras el Hanout mayo. The space is dark and moody, uplifted by an Andalucian soundtrack and exuberant staff. Every guest has two dedicated hosts, on call round-the-clock (via What’s App) for super-prompt room service, restaurant reservations, padel and tennis sessions, or SUP lessons with the Greek national champion. The slim beach is not the best swimming on the Athens Riviera — but once you’re inside this cloistered enclave, you couldn’t care less. If you get antsy, the Acropolis is a 30-minute drive. Private museum tours and boat trips can be arranged. Rachel Howard
Monument, Athens {Booking now here}
Monument certainly lives up to its name. It’s a bright, gleaming structure deemed a “piece of art” and, quite literally, a “modern monument” by the country’s Ministry of Culture, found where Ag. Dimitriou 11 and Kalamida collide. Today’s structure is the work of renowned German-born architect Ernst Ziller, the mastermind behind architectural works including the Presidential Mansion and National Archaeological Museum, and dates back to the late 19th century. This corner of town is getting buzzier and turning heads today, with restauranteurs and creatives utilising the commercial space along the winding alleyways that trickle off the more brash, central streets nearby. Owner Grigoris Tolkas and local studio MPlusM are behind the property’s facelift, kitting out rooms in a typically stylish fashion while retaining much of its original charm. My Epos Suite was a haven above a busting pass where a Michelin guide restaurant, Linou Soumpasis k sia, now resides, with sought-after Acropolis views from the veranda past the adjacent church. All suites are cosy yet cool, with high ceilings and the inclusion of some futuristic additions in some rooms – see the bathroom housed in a mirrored cube in the echo suite. A hearty continental breakfast spread fuels guests each morning, but there’s no on-site restaurant – ask the in-the-know receptionists where the hottest tables in town are right now and they’ll eagerly spill the beans. Connor Sturges
Acro Wellness Suites, Crete {Booking now here}
Teetering over a caldera-like cliff with spectacular views over Mononaftis Bay, Acro Wellness Suites’ string of stone-built suites and villas are like a slice of Santorini in Crete. Scattered across a thyme-scented hillside, nine dome-roofed cave suites have in-room tubs for amorous soaping and large terraces with grotto pools for lazy soaking. The romantic adults-only set up makes it one of our favourite hotels for a honeymoon in Greece. The cave suites offer oodles of room for canoodling, but for the best sunset views choose one of the three pool villas. Beyond the lovely suites, other highlights include the resort’s lagoon-like central pool, and a light-filled spa crisscrossed with trickling water channels and centred on a Moroccan-style dome-roofed hammam. Heidi Fuller Love
Kyrimai, Mani {Booking now here}
Down in deepest Mani, the middle tentacle of the Peloponnese, there’s nothing for miles save for the occasional road lined with shrines, or fields full of chest-high thistles; here and there, old stone towers stab the sky. In one such place, Gerolimenas, on the far southwestern shore, Kyrimai hotel has occupied a 19th-century tower house for some 20 years. Originally built by the family who runs the establishment, it’s perfect as far as conversions go: immaculate and indulgent, yet retaining the deep romance of a place so remote it might have been overgrown with brambles only a week ago. It’s a maze of arches and stairways, the rooms inside the thick stone walls often split on two levels, with beds wearing white linen tucked in the eaves. Yet nothing feels cavelike. Instead, sunshine spreads beyond the windows and shutters into the amber-coloured walls and along hefty wooden floors. A restaurant sits above clear water in which fish curl and loll toward the shadows. It’s impossible not to step off repeatedly for a swim. There’s usually someone doing laps around the bay, or the sound of a creaking boat resounding off thyme-scented cliffs. In spring, the high rocks can turn light blue with wild sage that also appears in the house cocktails. The food is the best in the region: sardines with black olives whose spicy freshness cuts through the fatty fish oil, and rock samphire that turns creamed feta from a salty Greek chore into something paradisiacal. Antonia Quirke
The Wild Hotel, Mykonos {Booking now here}
The Wild has provenance: its creators were the restaurateurs behind Interni, a Mykonos institution with outposts in Athens and Belgrade. Family patriarch Nikos Varveris also created homewares brand Moda Bagno (not bad composite skills for a hotel). When they were small, Varveris would bring his children to jump off cliffs encasing a scoop of sand on Mykonos’ peaceful southwestern coast. Now, grown-up Philip and Alex have created The Wild here. This laidback idyll of 40 rooms and suites, some with plunge pools (and a two-bedroom pool villa) opened on the cusp of the pandemic. Sofia Apergi and Matina Karava’s architecture made use of local stones and woods. Polished-concrete spaces are softened with handcrafted lampshades and kilims. The suites resemble a higgledy chora – organic and rustic yet sleek. They tumble down to a curvy cliff-top infinity pool, and a small spa, bar and restaurant area. A stone staircase winds down to the beach. The Wild eschews the raucousness of Mykonos. Instead, the sons followed the template and memory of their family home: a convivial, aesthetic space filled with friends with a busy kitchen. A slow-food philosophy is embraced, with family recipes and local produce at Taverna, a simulacrum of a village cafe, with its Myconian cheeses, crisp pies, meats and catches of the day. Pine-framed multi-level Raw, overlooking the beach, lantern-lit by night, is for botanical cocktails, sakes and Greek vintners. Food here speaks to demanding palates, with a Greek-Japanese plant-and-paleo-tilted menu by Kazouaki Sitamori. Rib-eye steaks and aubergines; Cycladic urchins and salmon roe; spicy tuna with black sesame and a vegan futomaki. The Wild is built for eating beautifully, spa moments, long, poolside coffees, and beach lounging. This year they offer a rekitted sailing boat for trips to secluded swim spots off-island. Kick back and relax. The party is elsewhere. Lydia Bell
Onar, Andros {Booking now here}
Burnt out by the jet-setting life of an industry scion, Mateo Pantazopoulos built a few stone cottages overlooking Achla, his favourite beach on Andros, where he and his hard-partying pals could unwind. Fast forward two decades and this castaway fantasy has gone marginally more upmarket. There are now 15 elegantly spare houses, including five smart new villas with lap pools and planted roofs. But a challenging 9km dirt road is still the only way to reach the virgin bay of Achla (or, weather permitting, a 15-minute speedboat ride from Andros’ elegant Chora). Hiking trails lead into wetlands rustling with partridges, hares, and turtles, where you can cool off in lurid green rock pools. Most days are spent in a soporific daze, drifting to and from the beach and lulled into long siestas by a chorus of cicadas. Simple, summery dishes (tomato and basil bruschetta, sausage and potato omelette) are served at communal tables under giant plane trees. If you’re really lucky, a local fisherman will grill your supper around a campfire on the beach.
Aristide, Syros {Booking now here}
The 19th-century commercial and shipping centre of Greece, Syros is not like other Greek islands. And the Aristide is not like other Greek island hotels. In a sugar-pink mansion built in the 1920s, this nine-suite hotel is located in Vaporia, the most aristocratic neighbourhood in the stately port capital, Hermoupolis. While the original neoclassical features (patterned floor tiles, stencilled ceilings, huge picture windows) have been carefully preserved, interiors are jazzed up with intense colours, intriguing contemporary art, and modern designer furnishing. Sustainability guided every aspect of the restoration and operations, from the energy-efficient cladding to the locally made organic cosmetics (in glass containers, naturally). A fledgling veg garden provides ingredients for the à la carte breakfast and rooftop restaurant, where the short, seasonal menu (calamari, zucchini, black garlic aioli, poached fish fricassee) is as sensational as the sea and harbour views. With a series of artists’ residencies, workshops, and exhibitions, guests can also tap into the island’s surprisingly vibrant cultural scene.
The Vasilicos, Santorini {Booking now here}
With just seven suites (all with mind-blowing views of Santorini’s fishbowl horizon), The Vasilicos has the intimacy and attention to detail you’d expect from a hotel that was not meant to be a hotel at all – yet it has established itself as one of the best hotels in Greece. Designed by bon viveur Vasilis Valambous as a summer house to host extended family and friends, restored by his daughter Daphne, and managed by her husband Makis, every inch of this terraced, cliffside residence has a story to tell. Bespoke beach towels feature a leaf print of the native metrosidiros plant. The homemade baklava is made to a secret family recipe. Bedside books are curated by Atlantis Books, a legendary local bookshop. The traditional architecture keeps the dazzling white rooms naturally cool in summer; there are heated pools for cooler months. Every door and window frames a different caldera view. Santorini’s volcanic landscape doesn’t just produce awe-inspiring vistas; it also yields astonishingly good wine. Private dining comes with expert wine pairings and minibars are stocked with award-winning wines from Vasaltis Vineyards, run by Daphne’s brother, Yannis. This is one impressive family affair.
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